2016 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE REDS
IMPECCABLE TERRET NOIR ON GRAND PIERRE, DOMAINE DU BANNERET, 28 SEPTEMBER, 2016
2016 is a fabulous vintage at CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE. The Royal appellation of the Southern Rhône can truly strut its multi-coloured, fascinating robes this year, a dazzle of pleasure to the eye and to all the senses. The wines are full of bounty, are aromatic, possess certain content, ripe tannins, and, hallelujah, are BALANCED. So I don’t want loose talk from slapdash journalists who should stick to BURGUNDY waffling on about high alcohol degrees. Those lamentable scribblers should buy a knife and fork instead of relying on a teaspoon.
When a great vintage comes along, it is rare that it is a surprise. Perhaps, in my experience back to 1971, I can think of 1981 that started as an ugly duckling, and turned out to be a swan. Its trump card was its acidity, and once that had settled, the wines went on a spur of generation, binding themselves, but also expanding. But their shape and feel were never similar to the relative neighbour of 1978, that had announced itself as extremely good, rich and fresh from the off.
In that respect, 2016 aligns itself with 1978 more than 1981, and notably with 1990, which was a sun-filled vintage with a high yield, just like 2016. However, winemaking was more rudimentary in 1990; investment in cellars has been widespread in the past 26 years, cleanliness is much improved. One only has to look at the standard of white wine making between now and then to gauge what has been going on.
When comparing to other vintages such as 1990, realism about the changes since then is necessary, according to FRANÇOIS PERRIN of CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL. As he puts it: “bottling techniques, vineyard care, the date of harvest are all more precise. We put in temperature control in the cellar around 1998, so the wines were kept more freshly after that.”
There has indeed been a leap forward in vineyard work, which is much more detailed than it was in 1989-1990. Beyond more accurate harvesting dates, come improved control of the ripeness of different varieties, and cooling systems upon reception, with optical sorting and so on, much more in place. BEAUCASTEL have been organic for decades, but there is greater working of the soils these days, which growers pointed to as a benefit in 2016 – if done pre-season, and not so as to withdraw humidity if done during the growing season.
Of course, the laugh is that in a vintage such as 2016, all the technical knowledge in the world, all the heaviest investment in the latest gizmo are really rendered almost null and void because the harvest quality was so outstanding. “Make me lazy, give me a garage, and in 2016 I can make top wine” could be a refrain for the year. I went around the vineyards in September, 2016, the third and fourth weeks of the month, and wherever I went, and whatever the variety, red, white or rose, the grapes looked wonderful, and also tasted wonderful.
This is therefore a vintage that will give enormous amounts of pleasure and will live extremely well. Because the terroir is so fine, I am adamant that it is a pity to drink such wines, however gourmand they may be, in their immediate youth. They are nearly all capable of becoming stimulating, provocative and complex as they evolve, so rushing in to drink them, however instant the squelchy pleasure, before around 2020-21 is a wasted opportunity.
TWO KEYS TO THE PAPAL PALACE: FRESH NIGHTS, MID-SEPTEMBER RAIN
2016 is actually a dry, sun-filled vintage, but there were two factors that dragged it back from being a close cousin to 2003 – fresh late summer nights and one mid-September rainfall. The fresh nights factor held an important role in forming the beauty of the wonderful 2010 vintage, a vintage, incidentally, that has more lithe features than 2016: the greater density and thickness of the 2016 content is what aligns it more with 1990 than 2010.
PIERRE PERVEYRIE assembles a hand made wine at CLOS ST PIERRE, situated in the north-west of the appellation. He recounted: “there was a good quantity at budding, but there was some coulure (flowers not converting into fruit) here and there, some millerandage (seedless berries). June was rainy, then July and August dry. The heat provoked concentration and the Mistral wind contributed a bit of that concentration as well. I only had to do six rounds of treatment – this area is wonderful for organic working. I rate 2016 as exceptional, superior to 2015.”
In mid-summer there was one instance of hail, with a storm on 28 June that came through on LA NERTHE, and stopped just before BEAUCASTEL. It hit SORGUES, BÉDARRIDES, LA CRAU, and BOIS DAUPHIN.
DRY CONDITIONS – VERY LITTLE BLIGHT
Otherwise, the dry conditions meant that the vineyard did not require large amounts of retrieval work. Talking in early August to the talented JULIEN BARROT of DOMAINE LA BARROCHE, I was informed: “things are impeccable, and the potential is good. There is a slight fear about drought, we need rain, and without rain there may be a blockage in ripening. There’s been no mildew, oïdium nor black rot. The veraison is happening now – the grapes changing colour – and we may start the harvest around 15 September. The yield is good so far, similar to 2015.”
At the same time, across the road at CLOS DES PAPES, VINCENT AVRIL told me: “the harvest looks very joli, with no blights at all because it’s been very dry; the vines are resisting well. There aren’t many weeds because of the dry conditions. Overall, we have had just 260 mm (10.2 in) of rain since early January. The bunches aren’t too tight knit and look fine. The grapes are small, and there isn’t a lot of juice in each grape – but that’s good for quality. We do need rain, though.
The veraison started around 18 July, and is going quite quickly, 70% completed in some places. Harvest could be around 12-14 September, not before. It all depends on August. It’s a normal year vis-à-vis ripening, and we are running at 22-25 hl/ha, before discarding, which beats our recent averages.”
By early September, the pips were squeaking with regard to the need for rain, with JULIEN BARROT reporting: “from 20 August to 15 September, we had very hot days, but super fresh mornings; even the CINSAULT ripened, and was exceptional for quality. Thanks to the fresh nights, the skins remained stable, not cracked.” Overnight freshness started to exert its influence, just at the moment of growing stress, therefore.
On 5 September, the STGT practitioner LAURENT CHARVIN of DOMAINE CHARVIN, in the north of the appellation, was full of beans: “MAG-NI-FIQUE . . you know this word?”, he asked me. “It’s the best crop since I started in 1990. There is great potential, unbelievable health in the vineyards. Working organically has posed no problems this year, neither from mildew nor oïdium, for example. My vines aren’t suffering from drought. The grapes are concentrated.
2016: A YEAR WHEN WORKING THE SOILS REAPED FRESH DIVIDENDS
Working the soils paid off in acting against the stress that some areas have known. We had only 2-3 mm of rain during August, and the forecast is for weather that is warm, around 28°C, and dry until the second weekend in September. I will start on my white grapes on 7 September, the SYRAH at the end of the week, and the GRENACHE the week commencing 12 September.”
THE VITAL MID-SEPTEMBER RAIN
Then, along came the ace card to render the vintage quite exceptional: a band of rain, not a trickle, that swept across the appellation, bringing 40 to 45 mm mostly (1.6-1.8 in), with 30 mm (1.2 in) in some places.
CAROLE ARNAUD is part of the CABRIÈRES family, and works eight hectares at CLOS ST PIERRE: “we had 45 mm (1.8 in) of rain on 15 September on our vineyards in the south of the appellation, notably LES GALIMARDES, whereas BÉDARRIDES and CAMARET near the PLAN DE DIEU only got 4-5 mm,” she told me.
Young XAVIER ROLIN of DOMAINE ROGER PERRIN applauded the rain: “a rainfall of 45 mm (1.8 in) on 14-15 September made us stop harvesting for four and a half days; the MISTRAL wind got going after the rain, which was of course very helpful. I’d say that we had had under 30 mm (1.2 in) of rain from early June until then, so the rain was welcome. Ripening was a lot more heterogeneous than normal this year – it was hard to follow the cases of previous years, with some plots a lot more precocious than usual. For example, some CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES vineyards were ahead of CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, not after them, this year. GRENACHE on the VILLAGES was expected to take seven days to fully ripen, then – wham! – it was done in just two days.”
THIÉRRY USSEGLIO of DOMAINE PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS also praised the rain: “this year the 45 mm on 14 September was very beneficial, and served well to lower the degree, diluting things a little,” he related. “The yield is similar to 2015, perhaps a touch more this year. The bunches are handsome, the grapes not enormous. It’s a hot, dry, Mistral wind vintage with very little discarding or sorting needed. We harvested the southern area on GRANDES SERRES and GALIMARDES on 8-9 September. By contrast we only harvested the GRENACHE on LES ESQUEIRRONS, on the limestone north-west of the village, on 27 September.”
MID-SEPTEMBER RAIN AVOIDED A 2003 VINTAGE
Another grower to comment on the vital role of the mid-September rain was the motivated and busy FLORENT LANÇON of DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE, who, in his CUVÉE CORNELIA CONSTANZA, has made one of the wines of the vintage: “it’s been a perfect year,” he reported. “30 mm (1.2 in) of rain on 14 September unblocked the ripening – otherwise it would have been like 2003. The top heat was 36°C to 38°C at the end of August, while the nights then were warm, 24°-25°C.” The rain avoided a lack of balance vis-à-vis the alcohol levels. The late ripening zones did well, ones such as FONT DU LOUP (E), VAUDIEU (N-E), RAYAS (N-E), the COURTHÉZON area.
Also relieved that a 2003 vintage had been avoided was THIÉRRY USSEGLIO of DOMAINE PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS, who remarked: “the GRENACHE and SYRAH had very dark colours, and we have brought in more crop at 15° to 15.5° than at 14°. The wine was very joli at the end of fermentation. In 2003, also a drought year, there was less juice in the grapes.”
DRY, DRAINING SOILS = CONCENTRATION
The spring had been dry and not very warm”, he continued, “and at that stage it was shaping like a late ripening vintage. Our first harvest this year was the SYRAH on COSTE FROIDE (E, very close to the village] on 6 September, and we ended three weeks after that. The MOURVÈDRE was very much helped by the September rain – the leaves were greener after that, and the bunches were good and loose. Terroir will come through – meaning the dry soils will give wines of concentration, for example. The musts were quite fresh. I have found that there is very good acidity in the wines, even on ripe, concentrated GRENACHE at 15° to 16°, with a Ph OF 3.4 – I’ve never seen that.”
FRANCK MOUSSET who makes well-fruited, enjoyable wines that reflect his upbeat nature at DOMAINE DES SAUMADES was firmly content with the rain, telling me: “the 40 mm of rain in mid-September was a big help. I have never seen such a crop – it was ripe, but also had a very good pH. 2016 beats the records of years on levels such as pH – 3.40 – total acidity – 4.00, polyphenols, anthiocyanes.”
RAIN LOOSENED UP THE SKINS, AIDED THE TANNINS
President of the Growers Union, the hard working THIÉRRY SABON of CLOS DU MONT-OLIVET also commented on the mid-September bonus, pointing out: “you had 15° to 16° on the crop, but also thick, underripe skins. The rain in mid-September allowed the plots to get over that obstacle. In the vinifications there was a risk of residual sugar – it was difficult to end the alcoholic fermentation this year.”
The pristine quality of the crop was outlined in an anecdote from CATHERINE ARMENIER of the outstanding, longtime biodynamic DOMAINE DE MARCOUX: “our tractor broke down on 21 September, but we had it repaired that day, with no worries,” she told me. “As for our table de tri (sorting table) – look at my clean clothes – it wasn’t really necessary. There was a good yield, with juice and degree.”
Her sister SOPHIE ARMENIER gave a thorough rundown on how she saw 2016: “the reds have a lot of colour, really deep, and belles acidities, good pHs; I did no acidification because the reds held a very interesting balance. Freshness will keep the wines together, and going for a long time. The old timers say they have never seen such a fine vintage crop before. The degree is 15° to 16° and a bit more, up 1° on 2015. There is also a lot of tannin, more than 2015.
Nights in July and August were fresh, which was crucial after the high daytime heat, so the wines aren’t hot. I would call 2016 a year of facility – you can have an easy year in the vineyard, but the wines don’t all turn out well, and you are faced with rising Volatile Acidity and vigilance is needed in the cellar – that was the case in 2003. 2016 was facile on both fronts, and the wines are superb.
Yields were good for us – 25 hl/ha, the same as 2015. My SYRAH yield was a little down – 2% to 3% - on 2015, but was more joli than 2015, which was hurt by the late August hydric stress. The 2016 MARCOUX VIEILLES VIGNES has a different style to the 2015; it’s more based on power, like 2007, whereas 2015 is more about finesse and elegance.”
FRESH NIGHTS A WINNING FACTOR
The freshness of the late summer nights was an active contributor to the quality of 2016. As PASCAL LAFOND of DOMAINE ROC-ÉPINE said: “the fresh nights in August were very helpful. The heat in September – 29°C on 29 September, for example, was very rare. The tannins are fine, already at the end of vinification, which is unusual, a very belle surprise.” This was re-iterated by JEAN-PAUL DAUMEN of the excellent, stylish DOMAINE DE LA VIEILLE JULIENNE near ORANGE: “August was marked by hot days, with very helpful fresh nights,” he recalled.
GREAT MOURVÈDRE, GOOD BUT NOT GREAT SYRAH, TANNIC DENSITY
Growers constantly referred to record levels – colour, tannins, acidity – this year. JÉRÔME MATHIEU has named his domaine SAJE since the split with his brother ANDRÉ [his wife SAbine and him JErome]: “it’s a beau vintage. It was dry so I was cautious, but it was easy to work with. The wines are abundant, have a lot of qualities; they’ll be tough, and will take a long time to come together. It was a record year for tannic density – the GRENACHE was as coloured as the SYRAH this year. The wines also have fruit balance, happily. If you ask me, I prefer 2016 to 2010, but it’s close between 2009 and 2016, for me.
The rumbustious NICOLAS BOIRON of BOSQUET DES PAPES also talked about the high tannin index, when stating: “it is a magnificent, keeping vintage, all grapes varieties did very well. There was exceptional MOURVÈDRE – I have never seen it as ripe and good. The SYRAH was joli, but not impressive – it suffered from the heat. Colours were very intense – I have never seen the index so high as in 2016. Balance is very good.” The phenolic ripening [the tannins] was very, very good. The wines were 15.5° to 16°.”
Across the board, the plethora of grape varieties performed with dash this year, with, as pointed out by NICOLAS BOIRON, the SYRAH the one variety about which reservations were expressed – no surprise, since it is palpably ill adapted to the hot climes of the Mediterranean basin. The INAO advice, near urging, that it be widely planted is ludicrous, completely wrong headed.
STEMS AND PIPS RIGHT ON THE MONEY
So complete was the ripeness this year, that reference was made to the quality of stems and pips. FRÉDÉRIC DE VILLIERS from the ruggedly traditional DOMAINE LUCIEN BARROT & FILS stated: “we started our harvest on 6 September, ending on 28 September. The stems had started to go yellow, and the pips were brown, not green – both good signs. It’s a very sympa year, with clean grapes, no vinification problems. The vinifications took three weeks, and we are very happy with the GRENACHE and SYRAH.”
PATRICK BRUNEL of CHÂTEAU DE LA GARDINE, west of the village, was another to recognise the high quality of the harvest, when telling me: “the quantity was small, but the crop marvellous, with the Fire of God colours and robes. I have only see that quality of fruit five or six times in my life. The GRENACHE suffered a little coulure, the MOURVÈDRE was ready very early, so could be blended with the GRENACHE and the SYRAH, which we like to do. In terms of style, we have always sought to find fruit, fruit, fruit – but it’s not easy to sell CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE that isn’t 15.5° and massive.” An interesting final observation, there: are the days of Body Builder wines really over?
FRANÇOIS PERRIN of CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL also used the M adjective when discussing the crop: “the grapes were magnificent, the ripeness good. The days were hot in August, but the nights cool. There is a lot of colour and acidity, the alcohol OK, a bit higher than 2015. The vintage made itself, on its own. There is charm and balance in the wines. Our vineyard at BEAUCASTEL performed well in the drought thanks to the clay-limestone soils, especially for the GRENACHE. The SYRAH suffered a bit, and the MOURVÈDRE was very good.”
VERY GOOD VACCARÈSE
From the north-west towards ORANGE, PHILIPPE BRAVAY, who makes full-blooded wine at DOMAINE DE FERRAND gave this rundown: “there is good density, but also a good Ph of 3.5 to 3.6, a natural acidity, very joli. We were down 10% in juice terms, though the crop yield was good – pointing to density in the grapes. The VACCARÈSE were magnificent, really ripened well, and taste well, unlike they were in 2014 which was a catastrophe. As for the CINSAULT, it was the first time I have thrown nothing away - a dry year is great for the CINSAULT. The vintage is more masculine than 2014, and 2015, has foundation, tannin. They will be keeping wines.”
JEAN-FRANÇOIS MÉRY of LES CLEFS D’OR, the old JEAN DEYDIER domaine, also remarked on the quality of the MOURVÈDRE, and of one of the less well-known varieties, the VACCARÈSE: “our harvest ran from 12 September to 27 September. Our yield was low with a bit of coulure on the GRENACHE and the VIEILLES VIGNES, then drought. That led to small grapes. Our last cropping was on LA CRAU – we picked some on 20 September at 14.5°, the last at 15.5°. The MOURVÈDRE was magnificent this year, 14.5° to 14.8°. We don’t have much SYRAH – that was 12.8° this year.
Very rare is it to have VACCARÈSE at 14.5°, as we did this year. It dates from the 1950s on PIED LONG, a late ripening sector, so we took leaves off the vines to help its ripeness. We ended up with 26-28 hl/ha, against 32 hl/ha in 2015.”
Longtime organic, biodynamic practitioner JACQUELINE ANDRÉ of DOMAINE PIERRE ANDRÉ also reckoned the conditions had been immaculately timed, with an explanation for the strong performance of the VACCARÈSE. “2016 is a good year, attractive, she ttold me. "We had what was required at the right time in the vineyard – the timing of rain, the sun, the fresh nights. The volume of 30 hl/ha we hadn’t seen for a long time. There’s belle balance, matter and appealing freshness. The VACCARÈSE benefited from the 2016 freshness."
A CINSAULT TRIUMPH, WHICH IS INFREQUENT
LUC CHARVIN of DOMAINE CHARVIN joined in on the praise for the smaller varieties: “I have never known what I had in my sector of the appellation – all the varieties did well, acidity levels were good and it was homogenous quality across the board. The SYRAH was very ripe, as were the CINSAULT, VACCARÈSE, and all the CARIGNAN for my CÔTES DU RHONE.
It’s the same quantity of crop as 2015, but with less juice this year. There was no drought, even in plots that might normally fear such conditions. The working of the soils at the end of the season counted. It’s the first time that I can say I am very, very happy with my SYRAH [LUC has three plots totalling 1.5 hectares]. The GRENACHE was magnificent.”
Just as PHILIPPE BRAVAY and LUC CHARVIN, who are relative neighbours in the North-West of the appellation, praised their CINSAULT, so did JULIEN BARROT of DOMAINE LA BARROCHE: “from 20 August to 15 September we had very hot days, but super fresh mornings; even the CINSAULT ripened, and was exceptional for quality. Thanks to the fresh nights, the skins remained stable, not cracked.
“It’s a magnificent vintage,” he went on – “all my blends are high quality. It’s the best year since I started in 2003. I adored 2010, but the satisfaction with 2016 is the quality along with a good quantity of wine, luckily a full crop. Had yields been lower, the wines could have been over concentrated, so as it is, the balance is good.
In terms of vinification, the malolactic on the 2016 MOURVÈDRE I have never known so delayed; if it is late, it’s usually in the spring after the harvest, but 2016 took until the end of the 2017 summer. That was due to the charge of tannin being so high, and the lactic bacteria didn’t develop. I also had to wait for the sugars on PURE – they were stuck at 7.5 gm for a while, and by October 2017, I still had 4.9 gm to go. The Ph is 3.60 to 3.65, similar to 2015. I started the CLAIRETTE on 12 September, the reds the next day, also similar to 2015.”
Joining in on the applause for the less frequent varieties in 2016 was FRANÇOIS PERRIN, who, as an indication of the quality of the vintage right across the board, showed me a 50 hl barrel of BEAUCASTEL COUNOISE (1982) at 12.4°, Tasting Note: red robe. Has a prominent spice-clove aroma with rose, musky tones, black pepper, real good clarity. The palate stretches out well, has a keen freshness, and beau red fruits, with nerve. It ends on fine red juice, is a serene wine. “The COUNOISE was abundant this year, and this is the opposite of an extraction wine,” he commented.
2016 WELL SUPERIOR TO 2015
2015 was a tricky year at CHÂTEAUNEUF, with sometimes edgy ripening, and I concur with growers who place 2016 well ahead of it. JEAN-PAUL VERSINO of DOMAINE BOIS DE BOURSAN signalled 2016 as some way ahead of 2015, when observing: “2016 has more alcohol, body, structure, colour and tannin than 2015. It’s a great vintage because of its balance.”
XAVIER ROLIN of DOMAINE ROGER PERRIN agreed with JEAN-PAUL VERSINO, pointing out, “there has been lots to discover in 2016, which is fascinating and passionate. The 2016 reds will be well above 2015, especially if the vigneron adapted well to the climate. There is more structure, more richness, more tannic richness, more polyphenols. Our 2016 vinifications are like being on holiday compared to 2015.”
JULIEN BARROT also preferred the 2016 tannins, when remarking: “the 2016 tannins are less firm than 2015’s, and are more wrapped into the wines; 2015 was a solar vintage, which then suffered some dilution from September storms.”
JEAN-PAUL DAUMEN of the biodynamic DOMAINE DE LA VIEILLE JULIENNE also strongly favours 2016 over 2015. He told me: “2016 is an extreme year; it has the concentration, power of 2015 with a lot of freshness, finesse, the pH levels good. It makes me think of 2001 in its balance, but is more profound and noble than that vintage. I much prefer 2016 to 2015.”
THE FRESHNESS CARD: LOWER THAN USUAL pH
Like several growers, VINCENT AVRIL of CLOS DES PAPES spoke about a healthy pH in 2016: “the pHs were very, very good in 2016, which was an advantage, and the tannins are very ripe. The pH is often 3.80 to 3.90, but this year it’s 3.70; it’s superior to 2010’s, by the way. The wines are past 15.5°, but I don’t let myself be influenced by the sugars – I judge by the skins.
We made 25 hl/ha – which is my marker yield for a normal crop here; 2015 was 22 hl/ha, 2014 15 hl/ha and 2013 13 hl/ha, by the way. I love the MOURVÈDRE, but it needs clay, not sand. In 2017, the sand based MOURVÈDRE wouldn’t have ripened, from a lack of humidity. Both 2015 and 2016 are GRANDES ANNÉES; 2016 has power, concentration, is of the stature of 2010 and 1990.”
COMPARISON TO OTHER TOP GRADE VINTAGES
FRANÇOIS PERRIN and I have virtually grown up together, and he is very well equipped to give a long view on 2016. He commented: “2016 is juicy, on fruit, ripe fruit without excess. It is a Grande Vintage – everything is good. It’s among the top years of BEAUCASTEL – 1989, 1990, 1978. Perhaps the 2016 style reminds me most of 1989. By contrast, 2015 holds less obvious fruit, is more Nordic than 2016.” His nephew MARC PERRIN also enthused about the vintage at BEAUCASTEL: “the wines are pure, balanced – everything was in balance. Cool nights aided the vintage all through the ripening season.”
2016 and 1990
I consider 2016 comparable to another sunshine year of great, gourmand appeal, namely 1990. When I mentioned this while tasting the CLOS DES PAPES with VINCENT AVRIL, he was 200% in agreement with that assessment, feeling that 2016 was perhaps ahead of 1990, because 2016 held great freshness, a pH lower than 1990’s. “It will really close down. Above all, you had to not chase extraction in 2016,” he told me.
LAURENT CHARVIN of DOMAINE CHARVIN [just one red, brilliant] up in the North-West of the appellation towards ORANGE, was another wise grower to refer to 1990. He informed me: “I am very happy with 2016. It’s a very beau year, better than 2010, with better balance, more freshness. The nearest vintage is possibly 1990, with the harvest less abundant in 2016 compared to 1990.”
THIÉRRY SABON of CLOS DU MONT OLIVET, agreed about 1990, stating “2016 is a Grand Vintage, comparable with 1990. The reds stopped fermenting with the sugars not finished, have high degree, but matter, concentration, aren’t heavy, are very, very jolis. You had to avoid the aspect of jam and dried grapes when vinifiying. There was ripeness, but also freshness, with the tannins well embedded into the matter. A year later, in October, 2017, I still had two vats to finish their sugars.”
The status of a GRANDE ANNÉE was also accorded by ALEXANDRE FAVIER of DOMAINE CHANTE CIGALE, who testified: “2016 is super – even what we sorted and discarded hit a good level. The weather was great, it rained when we wanted, and there were no blights in the vineyard. The wines are powerful, balanced, a bit more complex and full than 2015. It’s possibly a Grande Année.”
2016 and 2010
Growers are often ready to look ahead rather than back when praising the current vintage – “this year is much better than last year”, etc, so I am happy to listen to two views from the young generation comparing 2016 with 2010. However, they are different in profile from my point of view, the younger year much more obviously and fully charged.
At DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIÈRE, VÉRONIQUE MARET made these observations: “I would compare 2016 to 2010, with both vintages having good yields. Small rainfalls unblocked the GRENACHE, so there was just enough rain for that. Like 2010, the nights were fresh. There was good phenolic ripeness.
There is a lot of class in the wines, combining power and strength with freshness, lots of tannin and good length. Since 2015 we are working with PHILIPPE CAMBIE; I think that has brought more finesse, helped by more oxygen during the vinification, that brings perfumes. We are also using more stems – we have gone from all destemmed to 25% to 30% inclusion in 2015, and 50% inclusion in 2016.”
JÉRÔME GRIECO, who achieves fruit with flair at DOMAINE DE LA BISCARELLE gave this commentary: “our yields were low this year across the QUARTIER DU GRÈS because it was hit by the drought. There were a lot of grapes but not a lot of juice. 2016 will be more stable than 2015, which can show well one day, then not the next.
I rate 2016 above 2010. There’s freshness in the context of all the density and concentration, and a super balance. For me, the freshness this year came from the stems, the menthol side that brought the freshness. The stems hide the degree a bit. That could have meant a very over concentrated vintage, but the final outcome was more freshness. There are similarities with 2017 – they are both fresh vintages.”
Another grower to place 2016 ahead of 2010 was FRÉDÉRIC NICOLET of the Southern zone DOMAINE CHANTE PERDRIX, always a source for full-blooded wines: “the 2016 crop was very marvellous, superior to 2010. We had good rain at just the right moments. The tannins are very jolis, very silken.”
THOMAS MAGNI of DOMAINE PATRICE MAGNI, with a natural leaning towards punchy wines, also noted the freshness within their deep wines. He told me: “the reds have a solar imprint, high degrees, but the quality is good, and they will live a long time. They have sucrosity and length. We may extend our raising before bottling. The GRENACHE is fabulous, exceptional. It’s a complete year – the wines aren’t heady, they are fresh.”
2016 IS WELL BALANCED
The all-important freshness within 2016 is a major heartbeat of the vintage – without it, too many wines would veer towards the ponderous. You will also have noticed that the word BALANCE is present in descriptions, and that is the key ingredient in judging any vintage as excellent.
PIERRE PASTRE, who runs CHÂTEAU FORTIA, was one person placing 2016 alongside 2010: “I hope it will be a very good year, in fact I think it could be phenomenal, with all the varieties equally ripe, none better than the others. I compare it to 2010,” he told me in October, 2016.”
RALPH GARCIN, the welcome new broom at CHÂTEAU LA NERTHE, which needs to get back to making wines with character, also rated 2016 close to, or better than 2010: “it’s a dream vintage, above 2015, perhaps 2010,” he stated. “There is balance and primary matter, juice, so I am delighted. The wines aren’t alcoholic, and have natural freshness, ripe tannins without heaviness. It’s an accessible vintage which hasn’t needed much active work.
2016 has a lot more balance than 2015 – I find the 2015 has a solar side coming through with time. Perhaps 2015 is like 2009 and 2016 on the lines of 2010. The 2016 crop was bigger than 2015, and was helped by rainfall when we needed it.”
The MAS SAINT-LOUIS vineyards are in one block in the South-East, towards SORGUES – a hot zone. MATTHIEU FAURIE-GRÉPAN has contributed to a rise in quality and consistency there. He gave me this take: “the wines are very jolis, very concentrated, have a lot of colour and tannin. The essential was not to extract so as to avoid bulked up wines. It’s superb. We had to wait longer than some for phenolic ripeness on the GRENACHE.”
2016: STIMULATING BOUQUETS
When assessing a vintage such as 2016, I do of course draw on experience that goes back to tasting the 1960s years when they were young. One of the first impressions that CHÂTEAUNEUF made on me then was how wonderful were the aromas on those wines – baskets full of varied stimulants, mixed herbs, cedar, pine, dark fruits. The growers have not much commented specifically on the bouquets this year, but, for me, they are marvellous, even wondrous.
Floral airs feature, including on TRADITION wines, which are the most direct comparison with the vintages of long ago, pre all the micro-cuvées; the CLOS DES PAPES is floral, while FRANÇOISE and ANDRÉ BRUS at the traditional DOMAINE LUCIEN BARROT & FILS, home of sturdy CHÂTEAUNEUF, pointed to the fact that “the grapes were small, there was a lot of perfume, and a good colour; it’s more perfumed than rich (gras), with good small tannins.”
A cornucopia of varied delights comes forward on the bouquets, while, on the palate, a very big vintage often brings black fruits; not necessarily so this year with red fruits in the frame – testament to the balance of the wines, and an underlying brightness, harmony.
HIGH STGT COUNT IN 2016, OLD VINES GRENACHE ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL
It’s a major vintage for old vine GRENACHE truth and expression, hence a lot of STGT wines in 2016 - 17 in all [a world record!]. One of the neatest is the rollicking VALUE wine from the small DOMAINE PORTE ROUGE, by the way. If you had 80%+ GRENACHE and old vines this year, you were in clover – you could make the wine of your ancestors. “The old GRENACHE gave a good crop this year, so their percentage in the wines is healthy,” remarked THIÉRRY SABON of CLOS DU MONT-OLIVET. If you raised the wines in vat, you were even better placed than raising in the clash of young oak and old GRENACHE, as well.
Along these lines, I point to the ***** LES GRENACHES DE PIERRE of DOMAINE GIRAUD, oldest GRENACHE 1900s, vat only raising, the ***** DOMAINE MOULIN-TACUSSEL HOMMAGE A HENRY TACUSSEL from 1904 and older GRENACHE, the ****** DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE CORNELIA CONSTANZA, made from 1910-1920 GRENACHE, mostly vat raised, the biodynamic 95% GRENACHE ****** RAYMOND USSEGLIO & FILS CUVÉE IMPÉRIALE, made from 1901-1902 GRENACHE and all concrete vat raised, and the ****** DOMAINE DE MARCOUX VIEILLES VIGNES, made from GRENACHE ranging from 1900 to 1935, and all concrete vat raised. Then there is, of course, the 100% GRENACHE ****** CHÂTEAU RAYAS, raised in neutral old casks, another emblematic performer in this top vintage. These are all mighty wines.
A WORTHY SET OF EN FINESSE WINES
It was encouraging to encounter a good set of wines where finesse was more on the agenda than the broken CHÂTEAUNEUF record of power, and more power. One of the low profile triumphs, and well worth seeking out, is the refined, hand made ***** DOMAINE PORTE ROUGE, a bargain at €17.
Restraint and balance feature in the **** DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE DE L’ANGE. An en finesse style, tipping a hat to BURGUNDY came from the **** DOMAINE FONT DE MICHELLE TRADITION, where GUILLAUME GONNET is very much a name to watch. His trio of GUILLAUME GONNET wines are full of dash and imagination, with the ****(*) BEL AMI a wine of cool, precise harmony, for example. He is also involved in the venture with long standing [nearly as long as me, donc a veteran] British wine agent CHARLES BLAGDEN at LES BOIS POINTU.
Other domaines on a good trail of finesse this year include the charm by stealth ****(*) DOMAINE DE BEAURENARD, the subtleties of the ****(*) DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIÈRE, the ****(*) STGT CLOS ST ANTONIN [the SABON family of JANASSE], the lucid, neat **** JÉRÔME MATHIEU SAJE, the **** LES CAILLOUX from ANDRÉ BRUNEL, always one of the most truthful and best value CHÂTEAUNEUFs, the **** DOMAINE SAINT PRÉFERT, **** DOMAINE DES SÉNÉCHAUX and **** DOMAINE DU GALET DES PAPES.
BUT, SIPPING ONLY WINES AS WELL
Going across to the other end of the spectrum, there were still some wines plonking themselves into the “only for sipping” category. Here I cite the **** 16° GRAND TINEL HERES – style, truth, but sipping; the ***(*) MOURIESSE VINUM TOUR D’AMBRE – sipping; the ***(*) CHÂTEAU GIGOGNAN CARDINALICE [a bit sticky], the ***(*) DOMAINE DE PIGNAN CORALIE ET FLORIANE LE SOLEIL DE NOS VIGNES – sipping, and the *** DOMAINE JEAN ROYER LES SABLES DE LA CRAU - sipping, 16°.
A DRY VINTAGE, SO SOME WINES BAKED
Given the drought conditions, it’s not actually a surprise that some wines can be a bit dry on the finish, delivering a compressed, at worst baked, feel from the drought: *** ROMAIN DUVERNAY. The gradual ripening and cool nights tempered that feature of dry conditions, but it’s still present in the wines, most often buried under the abundance and richness. In some cases, it is less well buried, example two from the TOUR SAINT MICHEL – the *** DEUX SOEURS and *** L’EXTRAIT [baked finish].
Also bearing signs of the drought were wines such as the ***(*) DOMAINE PATRICE MAGNI LE PRESSOIR - dry tannins, a bit baked – and, for now, the **** CHÂTEAU FORTIA TRADITION [compressed for now, can emerge], likewise the **** DOMAINE BERTHET-RAYNE, from free draining soils.
MOURVÈDRE: A STARRING ROLE
In terms of glory beyond the old vines of the GRENACHE, step forward the MOURVÈDRE. I note increased planting of this really accomplished variety, which knocks the pedestrian SYRAH into a cocked hat at CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE.
The MOURVÈDRE role was very important this year, beyond the length and stuffing it brings – that of toning down the excess degree, the headiness of the GRENACHE. What I term a MAJOR FRENCH WINE is the 60% MOURVÈDRE ****** CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL HOMMAGE A JACQUES PERRIN, which bears the unctuous fruit of old vines, the oldest from the late 1940s. Handsome MOURVÈDRE also came in the shape of the ****(*) VIN DE FELIBRE DOMAINE ANDRÉ MATHIEU – 80% MOURVÈDRE, giving the wine a firm, controlled presence. Another good example was the ***** CLOS DU CAILLOU LA RÉSERVE – 45% MOURVÈDRE with 55% GRENACHE; also the ***** DOMAINE DE CRISTIA RENAISSANCE, 40% MOURVÈDRE.
Then there was the 100% MOURVÈDRE ****(*) LES SEMELLES DE VENT from CHRISTOPHE GALON and his 0.228 hectare of 1974-75 vines on LE COTEAU DE L’ANGE, and a regular success, the 85% MOURVÈDRE ***** MAS DE BOISLAUZON LE TINTOT. Even though it is only 20% MOURVÈDRE, I found that its presence lit up the ***** MAS SAINT-LOUIS GRANDE RÉSERVE, forming a great team with the 80% GRENACHE. Another wine to parade the qualities of the MOURVÈDRE was the **** DOMAINE DE L’HARMAS, the late palate well lined thanks to it, bringing in a liqueur cherry, spiced, lip-smacking finale.
SYRAH ONLY AT CHÂTEAUNEUF: NOT A SUCCESSFUL FORMULA
On the debit side were three 100% SYRAH wines, not a trend I would encourage at all. They were the *** DOMAINE DE SAINT-PAUL L’INSOLITE, a monochrome wine, the **(*) DOMAINE DES MARAVILHAS ESPIRITO - atypical and too mild, though I suspect the sample wasn’t a great one, and, lastly, the **(*) DOMAINE LA MEREUILLE CUVÉE D’AURÉ, bearing sweet, dry oak, and raising questions about its balance.
DOMAINES ON GOOD FORM
Casting my eye across end of term reports on the domaines, I would say that the relatively low profile [certainly in GB] CHÂTEAU BEAUCHÊNE was in very good form in 2016. DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE and FONT DE MICHELLE are performing with renewed energy and accomplishment from the thirty-something generation, while DOMAINE GIRAUD was also in excellent fettle this year. As an item of parish news, I convey the fact that at DOMAINE DE LA COTE DE L’ANGE, from 2016, YANNICK GASPARRI and team have decided to revert to just one wine, with no special cuvées. Good for them.
MUST DO BETTER ESTATES
However, at CHÂTEAU LA NERTHE, more character is needed. The mark of a good estate is always the base of the pyramid wine – look at the GUIGAL trio of exemplary CÔTES DU RHÔNEs – so the fact that the NERTHE CUVÉE DES CADETTES 2016 was a swaggering ****(*) wine is not strictly relevant - it has to be set alongside the low character ***(*) CHATEAU LA NERTHE, the core wine produced in much greater quantity. Another domaine which isn’t near the glories of vintages such as its splendiferous 1978 is CHÂTEAU FORTIA; there are two **** wines, one ***(*), but the wines lack inspiration, are solid, but fail to fire the imagination pre-bottling. Finally, at L’ABBÉ DÎNE, I feel bottling was done too early.
LONGEVITY: 25 YEARS PLUS
I reckon that I may have under-estimated the longevity of these often wonderful wines when tasting through them, so wines that can live 20 years can often go to 25 years, I feel, providing they have been well cellared, and well loved. Don’t be in a hurry, I implore readers. You can drink some from 2020-21, but a wait until 2024 will be more fruitful.
THE WISDOM OF EMMANUEL REYNAUD
There are some monuments, such as the CHÂTEAU RAYAS, that will live into the 2050s, so be prepared for what the remarkable EMMANUEL REYNAUD mentioned to me, with great sagesse: “2016 will be very good, a very GRAND VINTAGE blessed with alcohol, tannins and fruit. It will be very long-lived. You need a year like that, so our children and grandchildren can drink them, and discover wine.”
LEADING 2016 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE REDS
| ****** | Les Cailloux Cuvée Centenaire | 2056-59 | 05/19 | striking balance, maxi elegance |
| ****** | Chât Beaucastel Hommage J Perrin | 2048-51 | 10/17 | calm, unctuous, winning, major |
| ****** | Château Rayas | 2054-56 | 10/17 | crazy high quality, character |
| ****** | Dom de Marcoux Vieilles Vignes | 2038-41 | 10/17 | wholesome, swell, balance, musky |
| ****** | Dom la Solitude Cornelia Constanza | 2040-43 | 10/17 | calm, great finesse, STGT |
| ****** | Dom Raymond Usseglio Impériale | 2055-57 | 10/19 | silken, balanced, top pedigree, major do |
| ***** | Bastide St Dominique Secrets Pignan | 2038-40 | 10/17 | perfumed intensity, savoury, STGT |
| ***** | Bosquet des Papes Chante le Merle | 2038-41 | 10/17 | stylish, scented, interesting, STGT |
| ***** | M Chapoutier Barbe Rac | 2040-42 | 04/17 | aromatic concentration, deep, long |
| ***** | Château de Beaucastel | 2039-42 | 10/17 | fleshy, deep, tuneful, stylish |
| ***** | Château Beauchêne Odette Bernard | 2038-40 | 10/17 | fine detail, naked, integrity |
| ***** | Château Mont-Redon | 2055-58 | 10/21 | engaging, well orchestrated, graceful |
| ***** | Château Mont-Redon Le Plateau | 2050-52 | 10/21 | rich, vivid, garrigue, heart, length |
| ***** | Le Clos du Caillou La Réserve | 2036-39 | 10/17 | seamless, gd ensemble, v long |
| ***** | Clos des Papes | 2045-48 | 10/17 | unctuous, beau, sap, v long |
| ***** | Clos Saint Jean La Combe des Fous | 2054-57 | 05/19 | bountiful, toned, textured, with restraint |
| ***** | Clos Saint Jean Deus ex Machina | 2052-54 | 05/19 | manly, thorough, exuberant, smooth |
| ***** | Domaine Pierre André | 2043-45 | 02/18 | sumptuous, mega tasty, elegant |
| ***** | Dom de la Biscarelle Les Anglaises | 2046-48 | 05/19 | en finesse, velvet with iron, vim, vigour |
| ***** | Domaine Chante Cigale V Vignes | 2038-41 | 10/17 | thick, fluid, perfumed |
| ***** | Dom Charbonnière Vieilles Vignes | 2035-38 | 10/17 | swell matter, harmony, clarity |
| ***** | Domaine Charvin | 2045-47 | 05/19 | intricate strength, fresh, assertive, time |
| ***** | Domaine de Cristia Renaissance | 2037-40 | 10/17 | glossy, silken, local, charm |
| ***** | Domaine de Ferrand | 2043-45 | 03/25 | stroking texture, abundant, garrigue |
| ***** | Dom Font Michelle Elegance Jeanne | 2036-39 | 10/17 | charm, perfume, serenity |
| ***** | Dom Font Michelle Etienne Gonnet | 2038-41 | 10/17 | spice, gusto, high interest, STGT |
| ***** | Dom Giraud Grenaches de Pierre | 2039-41 | 10/17 | tasty, balanced, spherical, pure |
| ***** | Domaine Giraud Tradition | 2035-38 | 10/17 | complete, nourishing, flair, fresh |
| ***** | Guillaume Gonnet Homge Maryline | 2038-41 | 10/17 | wide, firm, local, very long |
| ***** | Dom Grand Veneur Vieilles Vignes | 2037-40 | 10/17 | swell, luxury, silken |
| ***** | Dom de la Janasse Vieilles Vignes | 2040-42 | 10/17 | thorough, complex, character |
| ***** | Domaine La Millière Vieilles Vignes | 2036-39 | 10/17 | wholesome, gt balance, lux, STGT |
| ***** | Dom de la Mordorée Reine des Bois | 2038-40 | 10/17 | v full, serious, gusto, spicing |
| ***** | Dom Moulin-Tacussel Henry Tacussel | 2035-38 | 03/18 | gourmand, silken, true old school |
| ***** | Domaine Porte Rouge | 2033-36 | 10/17 | generous, hand made, STGT, V |
| ***** | Dom Santa Duc Les Saintes Vierges | 2037-39 | 10/17 | fluid succulence, silken, STGT |
| ***** | Dom Pierre Usseglio mon Aiëul | 2040-42 | 10/17 | abundant, handsome, very long |
| ***** | Dom de la Vieille Julienne Réservé | 2046-49 | 02/19 | harmony, spherical, true Gren, fresh |
| ***** | Le Vieux Donjon | 2047-50 | 05/19 | vivid, licence to thrill, oily truth, STGT |
| ***** | Mas de Boislauzon Le Tintot | 2039-42 | 10/17 | sturdy, firm., balance, cool |
| ***** | Mas Saint-Louis Grande Réserve | 2038-41 | 10/17 | handsome, thick, dark, long |
| ****(*) | La Bastide Saint Dominique | 2032-34 | 10/17 | dark, smooth, with style |
| ****(*) | Bastide St Dominique Crous St Martin | 2036-39 | 10/17 | thick, spiced, thorough, large |
| ****(*) | Bosquet d Papes Gloire Grand-Père | 2038-41 | 10/17 | deep, good punch, STGT |
| ****(*) | Frederic & Dan Brunier Piedlong | 2039-41 | 10/17 | serene, silken, oily, true |
| ****(*) | Chapelle St Théodoric Le Grand Pin | 2037-40 | 10/17 | cosy, perfumed, naked, complex |
| ****(*) | M Chapoutier Croix de Bois | 2039-41 | 04/17 | harmony, bright depth, textured |
| ****(*) | Château Beauchêne Grande Réserve | 2038-40 | 10/17 | generous, deep, verve, STGT |
| ****(*) | Château de la Gardine Peur Bleue | 2023-25 | 10/17 | entrancing fruit, pure, w.o.w. |
| ****(*) | Château de Nalys | 2043-45 | 03/19 | v stylish, savoury, innate power |
| ****(*) | Chât La Nerthe Cuvée des Cadettes | 2038-40 | 10/17 | sumptuous, generous, swagger |
| ****(*) | Clos des Brusquières | 2036-39 | 10/17 | trad, character, spicy, STGT |
| ****(*) | Le Clos du Caillou Les Quartz | 2046-49 | 10/19 | weighted, stately, concentrated, long |
| ****(*) | Clos de l’Oratoire des Papes | 2035-38 | 10/17 | thick, mobile, interest, variety |
| ****(*) | Clos St Antonin | 2036-38 | 10/17 | savoury, curvy, finesse, STGT |
| ****(*) | Clos Saint Jean | 2047-49 | 05/19 | savoury, rich, sustained; fresh darts |
| ****(*) | Cuvée des Sommeliers | 2043-45 | 10/19 | rolling intensity, pliant; saline end |
| ****(*) | Domaine Paul Autard | 2035-38 | 10/17 | layered, sleek, big, long |
| ****(*) | Domaine Paul Autard Cuvée Juline | 2039-41 | 10/17 | dashing fruit, sizzling, oak |
| ****(*) | Domaine du Banneret | 2053-55 | 10/19 | perfumed, serious, solid, STGT |
| ****(*) | Domaine La Barroche Signature | 2040-42 | 10/17 | elegant, deep, length, flair |
| ****(*) | Domaine de Beaurenard | 2036-38 | 10/17 | effortless, charm by stealth |
| ****(*) | Domaine de la Biscarelle | 2045-48 | 05/19 | naked, compact, interesting, potential |
| ****(*) | Domaine Chante Cigale | 2036-39 | 10/17 | tasty, rich, authentic |
| ****(*) | Dom Chante-Perdrix Étienne Pécoul | 2038-41 | 10/17 | muscle, strength, bold, STGT |
| ****(*) | Dom Chante-Perdrix Henri Perges | 2039-42 | 10/17 | wholesome, much juice, 100 Mourv |
| ****(*) | Domaine de la Charbonnière | 2034-36 | 10/17 | wholesome, thorough, subtleties |
| ****(*) | Dom Charbonnière Mourre Perdrix | 2038-41 | 10/17 | big matter, bold, sustained |
| ****(*) | Domaine de la Côte de l’Ange | 2046-48 | 10/19 | expressive, energy, serene, heartlands |
| ****(*) | Domaine de Cristia Vieilles Vignes | 2038-41 | 10/17 | generous, textured; natural sap |
| ****(*) | Domaine Durieu l’éperdu | 2036-39 | 10/17 | stylish matter, thick, oak, time |
| ****(*) | Dom Eddie Féraud Raisins Bleus | 2036-39 | 11/17 | weighty, deep heart, time |
| ****(*) | Dom Galet d Papes Vieilles Vignes | 2030-33 | 10/17 | stylish, silken, cool, balanced |
| ****(*) | Domaine Galévan Saint-Georges | 2035-38 | 11/17 | tasty, fulsome, big, mobile |
| ****(*) | Les Girard du Boucou Tradition | 2035-37 | 11/17 | tasty, detail, fresh, hand made, STGT |
| ****(*) | Guillaume Gonnet Bel Ami | 2035-37 | 10/17 | bountiful, precise, cool, harmony |
| ****(*) | Dom du Grand Tinel Alexis Establet | 2037-40 | 10/17 | full, complete Grenache, character |
| ****(*) | Dom Grand Veneur Les Origines | 2036-39 | 10/17 | stylish, long, fresh, balanced |
| ****(*) | Domaine de la Janasse | 2037-40 | 10/17 | broad, stylish, spiced, deep |
| ****(*) | Dom André Mathieu Vin di Felibre | 2036-39 | 10/17 | stylish, deep, gusto, length |
| ****(*) | Dom de la Mereuille Les Baptaurels | 2035-37 | 03/18 | natural, welll crafted, gourmand |
| ****(*) | Dom Mordorée La Dame Voyageuse | 2035-38 | 10/17 | smooth, long; munchable quality |
| ****(*) | Dom du Pegaü Cuvée da Capo | 2038-41 | 10/17 | expansive, deep, big, controlled |
| ****(*) | Domaine du Pegaü Cuvée Réservée | 2037-39 | 10/17 | character, genuine, rich, varied |
| ****(*) | Dom des Pères de l’Église Le Calice | 2035-38 | 10/17 | smooth, hand made, STGT |
| ****(*) | Dom Roger Perrin Galets Berthaude | 2036-39 | 10/17 | free, cool fruit, character |
| ****(*) | Famille Perrin Les Sinards | 2035-37 | 10/17 | very true, sing-song wine |
| ****(*) | Domaine Roger Sabon Prestige | 2039-41 | 10/17 | local virility, convincing, fresh |
| ****(*) | Dom Roger Sabon Secret des Sabon | 2041-44 | 10/17 | solid, crunched, intense juice |
| ****(*) | Domaine de Saint Paul | 2036-38 | 10/17 | wholesome, v persistent, true, genuine |
| ****(*) | Domaine St Prefert Auguste Favier | 2036-39 | 10/17 | rich, savoury, well packed |
| ****(*) | Saje 1600 | 2036-38 | 10/17 | clear, genuine, intricate, character |
| ****(*) | Domaine Santa Duc La Crau Ouest | 2044-45 | 10/17 | solid, silken, good authority |
| ****(*) | Domaine Santa Duc Pied de Baud | 2042-44 | 10/17 | plump generosity, stylish, long |
| ****(*) | Domaine des Saumades | 2036-39 | 10/17 | broad, coated, thorough, genuine |
| ****(*) | Les Semelles de Vent | 2035-38 | 10/17 | thorough, graceful, integrity, Bandol |
| ****(*) | Domaine Serguier Révélation | 2041-43 | 10/19 | poise, integrity, v clean, Burgundian |
| ****(*) | Dom de la Solitude Barberini | 2038-41 | 10/17 | thorough Grenache, full richness |
| ****(*) | Dom de la Solitude Réserve Secrète | 2039-42 | 10/17 | graceful, tasty, flair, oak |
| ****(*) | La Sousto | 2035-37 | 10/17 | delicious fruit, nourishing |
| ****(*) | Domaine Raymond Usseglio et Fils | 2035-38 | 10/17 | expressive, delicious, genuine, STGT |
| ****(*) | Dom Raymond Usseglio Part des Anges | 2049-51 | 10/19 | smoked, dark, vigour, stylish potential |
| ****(*) | Dom de la Vieille Julienne Hauts-lieux | 2044-47 | 05/19 | generously filled, solid heart, scale |
| ****(*) | Dom de la Vieille Julienne Trois Sources | 2043-45 | 05/19 | bright, nerve, structured, time |
| ****(*) | Dom du Vieux Télégraphe La Crau | 2041-43 | 10/17 | concentrated, dense, grounded |
| ****(*) | Dom de Villeneuve Vieilles Vignes | 2035-36 | 10/17 | authentic, nourishing, lovely length |
| ****(*) | Mas de Boislauzon Tradition | 2036-39 | 10/17 | authentic, handsome, local, spiced |
| ****(*) | Mas de Boislauzon Cuvée du Quet | 2039-41 | 10/17 | tight, intense, dark, spiced |
| **** | Bastide St Dominique Hespérides | 2034-36 | 10/17 | squelchy, fleshy, flashy, obvious |
| **** | Le Bois Pointu | 2040-42 | 12/18 | gleaming fruit, clear, engages well |
| **** | Bosquet des Papes La Folie | 2035-38 | 10/17 | broad, full, chunky, grounded |
| **** | Bosquet des Papes Tradition | 2035-38 | 10/17 | full, rippling content, genuine |
| **** | Chapelle St Théodoric La Guigasse | 2037-40 | 10/17 | chunky, thorough, smoky, time |
| **** | Chapelle St Théodoric Les Sablons | 2038-41 | 10/17 | juicy abundance, density, sip |
| **** | M Chapoutier Collection Bio | 2037-40 | 10/17 | bounteous, lusty, thorough |
| **** | Chât Beauchêne Vignobles Serrière | 2033-35 | 10/17 | lustrous Grenache fruits, jolly |
| **** | Château Cabrières Tradition | 2035-37 | 10/17 | tight, solid, dense, local |
| **** | Château Fargueirol | 2035-38 | 10/17 | spicy, dark, trad, STGT |
| **** | Chât Fargueirol Cuvée Antonin | 2036-39 | 10/17 | firm, sustained; naked Grenache |
| **** | Château Fortia Cuvée du Baron | 2032-34 | 10/17 | solid operator, restraint, power |
| **** | Château Fortia Tradition | 2035-37 | 10/17 | spiced, compressed, tannic clench |
| **** | Chât de la Gardine Gaston Philippe | 2035-38 | 10/17 | streamlined, sleek, handsome |
| **** | Chât de la Gardine L’Immortelle | 2037-40 | 10/17 | clenched, tight, scope, Mourv |
| **** | Chât Gigognan Clos du Roi | 2033-36 | 10/17 | authentic Gren, spicy, silky |
| **** | Chât Maucoil L’Esprit de Maucoil | 2033-36 | 10/17 | shapely content, heart, fresh |
| **** | Château Mont Thabor | 2033-36 | 10/17 | rolling density, generous, ample |
| **** | Chât Simian Grandes Grenachières | 2036-38 | 10/17 | compact, muscled, intricate |
| **** | Château Sixtine | 2035-38 | 10/17 | joli, juicy, swish, balanced |
| **** | Château de Vaudieu | 2034-36 | 10/17 | perfumed, bright, savoury, polished |
| **** | Château de Vaudieu Amiral G | 2035-38 | 10/17 | redondo, giving, fleshy, pleasing |
| **** | Château de Vaudieu L’Avenue . . . | 2036-38 | 10/17 | restrained, oak, serene, stylish |
| **** | Le Clos du Caillou Les Safres | 2035-38 | 10/17 | rolling, rich, gourmand, power |
| **** | Clos l’Oratoire des Papes Chorégies | 2039-42 | 10/17 | spiced, tenacious, oily, lift |
| **** | Clos Saint-Michel Tradition | 2033-36 | 10/17 | smooth, sleek, fresh |
| **** | Clos Saint-Michel Réservée | 2036-39 | 10/17 | silken, seamless, finesse |
| **** | Dom Paul Autard La Côte Ronde | 2036-39 | 10/17 | wavy content, clear, oak |
| **** | Domaine Juliette Avril | 2027-29 | 10/17 | joyous, perfumed, vigour, w.o.w. |
| **** | Domaine La Barroche Pure | 2040-43 | 10/17 | coated, stylish, very full |
| **** | Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils | 2036-39 | 10/16 | generous, balanced, gd heart |
| **** | Brotte Domaine Barville | 2032-35 | 10/17 | generous, immediate, genuine, sweet |
| **** | Domaine Berthet-Rayne | 2033-35 | 10/17 | wrapped up, spiced, concentrated |
| **** | Dom Berthet-Rayne elixir des Papes | 2034-36 | 10/17 | savoury fullness, finesse |
| **** | Dom Bois de Boursan des Félix | 2037-39 | 10/17 | Gren gras, Mourv spice; interest |
| **** | Dom La Boutinière Grande Réserve | 2036-39 | 10/17 | full, drive, thorough, genuine |
| **** | Domaine du Caillou Tradition | 2041-43 | 10/19 | thorough, abundant, vivacity, genuine |
| **** | Les Cailloux | 2035-38 | 10/17 | authentic, unforced, finesse, enjoyable |
| **** | Cellier Princes Prestige Princes Résrve | 2030-32 | 10/17 | generous, well presented, round |
| **** | Domaine Chante-Perdrix | 2035-38 | 10/17 | tenacious, compressed, v southern |
| **** | Dom Clef de Saint Thomas La Clef | 2033-35 | 10/17 | dense, thorough, concentrated |
| **** | Dom Comte d Lauze Rés Comtesse | 2033-35 | 03/18 | garrigue; sturdy, trad, honest |
| **** | Dom Croze-Granier Ancien Dom Pontifes | 2032-34 | 10/17 | smoothly rich, Gren heartbeat |
| **** | Dom Durieu Réserve Lucile Avril | 2034-37 | 10/17 | modern, mobile; pleasing fruit |
| **** | Domaine Durieu Tradition | 2036-39 | 10/17 | big, intense, rich, spiced |
| **** | Domaine Duseigneur Catarina | 2031-33 | 10/17 | cool reserve, subtle, tight |
| **** | Féraud et Fils Tradition | 2035-37 | 11/17 | sturdy, dark, genuine, long |
| **** | La Ferme du Mont Capelan | 2035-37 | 10/17 | streamlined, racy, modern |
| **** | La Ferme du Mont Vendange | 2033-36 | 10/17 | spiced Grenache, richness |
| **** | Dom Font de Michelle Tradition | 2034-36 | 10/17 | tasty, opulent, en finesse |
| **** | Domaine de Fontavin Trilogies | 2033-36 | 10/17 | fleshy, good heart, core |
| **** | Domaine du Galet des Papes | 2030-32 | 10/17 | neat, charming, genuine, tasty |
| **** | Dom Giuliani Galets de Jeanne | 2031-33 | 12/17 | serene, nourishing, detail, vibrancy |
| **** | Domaine Galévan | 2032-35 | 11/17 | smoky, dark, well tuned |
| **** | Domaine Giraud Les Gallimardes | 2035-38 | 03/18 | rich, thick, "impressive", sipper |
| **** | Guillaume Gonnet La Muse | 2033-36 | 10/17 | weighty, succulent, concentration |
| **** | Domaine Jérôme Gradassi | 2033-36 | 10/17 | thorough, delicious, raw charge |
| **** | Domaine du Grand Tinel | 2033-35 | 10/17 | pretty fruit, tasty, genuine |
| **** | Domaine du Grand Tinel Heres | 2035-38 | 10/17 | style, truth, dense, silken, sip |
| **** | Dom Grand Veneur Le Miocène | 2036-38 | 10/17 | crunchy content, smoky, genuine |
| **** | Grandes Serres Dom St Patrice VV | 2031-33 | 10/17 | enjoyable, authentic, well made |
| **** | E Guigal | 2039-41 | 12/19 | gourmand, gliding, crowd pleaser |
| **** | Domaine de l’Harmas | 2033-36 | 10/17 | good filling, genuine, long |
| **** | Dom de l'Harmas Caprice de Mathys | 2036-38 | 10/19 | balance, wholesome length, mystery |
| **** | Dom Olivier Hillaire Petits Pieds | 2033-35 | 03/18 | ripe, abundant, oak, after dinner |
| **** | Domaine de la Janasse Chaupin | 2036-39 | 10/17 | crunchy content, spark, punch |
| **** | Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine | 2033-34 | 10/17 | tasty, enjoyable, aromatic |
| **** | Domaine Lou Fréjau Cuvée XIII | 2030-32 | 11/17 | genuine, rugged, dark, understated |
| **** | Dom Patrice Magni Sensation | 2033-35 | 10/17 | gourmand, large, sucrosity |
| **** | Domaine de Marcoux | 2034-37 | 10/17 | fundamental, large, near sip |
| **** | Dom Julien Masquin Mémora | 2032-35 | 10/17 | streamlined, spinal, inner strength |
| **** | Domaine André Mathieu | 2034-36 | 10/17 | sparky fruit, pure, character |
| **** | Dom André Mathieu la Centenaire | 2036-39 | 10/17 | rich, fluid gras, fresh |
| **** | Gabriel Meffre Laurus | 2035-37 | 10/17 | stylish, suave, savoury |
| **** | Domaine L’Or de Line Paule Courtil | 2033-35 | 10/17 | fleshy, sweet, some freshness |
| **** | Dom de Panisse Confidence Vigneronne | 2033-36 | 10/17 | accessible, genuine; noble Gren |
| **** | Dom de Panisse Noble Révélation | 2034-37 | 10/17 | open fruits, poised, modern |
| **** | Domaine Père Caboche Tradition | 2032-34 | 10/17 | fleshy, savoury, obvious |
| **** | Dom Père Caboche Elisabeth Chambellan | 2034-37 | 10/17 | expressive, immediate, perfumed, bright |
| **** | Dom Roger Perrin Réserve V Vignes | 2038-40 | 10/17 | lithe, crunchy, naked, fresh |
| **** | Domaine Le Pointu Aeternalis | 2032-34 | 11/17 | firm, full, persistent, glow |
| **** | Le Puy Rolland Vieilles Vignes | 2032-34 | 03/18 | smooth elegance, gourmand, STGT |
| **** | Olivier Ravoire | 2033-35 | 10/17 | chunky, thick, ground force |
| **** | Domaine Jean Royer Prestige | 2035-38 | 10/17 | sturdy, tight, content, time |
| **** | Domaine Jean Royer Tradition | 2032-35 | 10/17 | rich, dense, high degree, sip |
| **** | Saint Cosme | 2033-36 | 10/17 | stylish, plump heart, tasty |
| **** | Domaine Saint Prefert Classique | 2033-36 | 10/17 | elegant, rich, genuine, natural |
| **** | Domaine St Prefert Charles Giraud | 2035-38 | 10/17 | sleek, detailed; rich wheel |
| **** | Domaine de Saint-Siffrein | 2034-36 | 10/17 | ground force, grilled, sturdy |
| **** | Dom de Saint-Siffrein Terre d’Abel | 2037-40 | 10/17 | tight, oaked, spiced, time |
| **** | Saje | 2029-31 | 10/17 | smooth content, lucid, finesse |
| **** | Saje Marquis Anselme Mathieu | 2034-37 | 10/17 | fluid, wavy, integrity, fresh |
| **** | Dom Santa Duc Habemus Papam | 2037-39 | 10/17 | cosy roundness, finesse; strength |
| **** | Domaine des Sénéchaux | 2033-36 | 10/17 | gourmand, soft, polished |
| **** | Domaine Serguier | 2034-36 | 10/19 | sparky nose, elegant gras, naked style |
| **** | Domaine de la Solitude | 2035-38 | 10/17 | big, plentiful, thorough, silken |
| **** | Dom de la Solitude Commandant Ducos | 2038-40 | 10/17 | slow gain, lithe, time |
| **** | Domaine des 3 Cellier Eternelle | 2033-35 | 10/17 | stylish, natural, time |
| **** | Dom Pierre Usseglio Deux Frères | 2037-40 | 10/17 | stylish richness, strong oak |
| **** | Domaine du Vieux Lazaret | 2031-34 | 10/17 | wavy fruits, rounded, sleek |
| **** | Dom du Vieux Télégraphe Télégramme | 2036-39 | 10/17 | cosy gras; garrigue, heart |
| **** | Mas Grange Blanche font Bessounes | 2031-32 | 10/17 | joli content, quiet crescendo |
| **** | Mas Saint-Louis | 2034-37 | 10/17 | full, tasty, unctuous, serene |
| **** | Mas Saint-Louis Arpents Contrebandiers | 2035-38 | 10/17 | generous, gourmand, spiced |
| **** | Vignobles Mayard Dom du Père Pape | 2036-39 | 10/17 | flair, interest, can be complex |
| ***(*) | Bouachon La Tiare du Pape | 2030-32 | 10/17 | easy gras, concentrated, oak |
| ***(*) | M Chapoutier Dom La Bernardine | 2034-37 | 10/17 | solid, dense, sturdy Grenache |
| ***(*) | Château de la Font du Loup | 2030-31 | 03/18 | sturdy richness; intensity, power |
| ***(*) | Château Fortia Réserve | 2029-31 | 10/17 | tasty tune, flattering, simple |
| ***(*) | Château Gigognan Cardinalice | 2032-35 | 10/17 | sweet succulence, dense, sip |
| ***(*) | Château Grande Gardiole | 2032-33 | 10/17 | fleshy, large; true Grenache |
| ***(*) | Château Jas de Bressy | 2032-33 | 10/17 | suave, polished, easy, sound |
| ***(*) | Château de Manissy | 2029-31 | 10/17 | live fruit, lithe tannin, local |
| ***(*) | Chât Maucoil Privilège de Maucoil | 2031-33 | 10/17 | sweet, sappy, spice, oaking |
| ***(*) | Château Maucoil Tradition | 2029-31 | 10/17 | genuine, uncluttered, garrigue |
| ***(*) | Chât de Nalys Saintes Pierres de N | 2040-42 | 03/19 | soft texture, mild, some CdP fuel |
| ***(*) | Château La Nerthe | 2031-33 | 10/17 | sleek, suave, low character |
| ***(*) | Château Sixtine Manus Dei | 2028-29 | 10/17 | suave matter, safe style |
| ***(*) | Chât de Vaudieu Val de Dieu | 2033-36 | 10/17 | modern, polished, oaking, tame |
| ***(*) | Domaine L’Abbé Dine | 2030-32 | 10/17 | rich, fluid, suave, sip |
| ***(*) | Louis Bernard | 2027-28 | 10/17 | easy, mild, open, pleasing |
| ***(*) | Dom Berthet-Rayne Fut de Chêne | 2034-35 | 10/17 | stiff from oak, firm |
| ***(*) | Domaine Bois de Boursan Tradition | 2032-35 | 10/17 | compact content, bit dry |
| ***(*) | Domaine La Boutinière Tradition | 2032-35 | 10/17 | steady Gren, Solid Operator |
| ***(*) | Cellier Princes Dom Les Escondudes | 2032-34 | 10/17 | rich, thick, power glow |
| ***(*) | Cellier des Princes Dom Le Mourre | 2029-31 | 10/17 | eau de vie; liqueur, smooth |
| ***(*) | Cuvée du Vatican | 2028-30 | 10/17 | juicy, spiced, straightforward |
| ***(*) | Domaine des Chanssaud d’Antan | 2031-33 | 11/17 | rather stylish, very sound |
| ***(*) | Dom Charbonnière Hautes Brusquières | 2035-37 | 10/17 | plush, sunswept, sipping |
| ***(*) | Domaine Comte de Lauze | 2031-33 | 03/18 | wavy matter, honest, grounded |
| ***(*) | Domaine Condorcet | 2029-31 | 03/18 | concerted, sunfilled fruit, trad |
| ***(*) | Domaine La Consonnière | 2030-32 | 10/17 | tasty centre, spiced, oak |
| ***(*) | Delas Haute Pierre | 2030-32 | 10/17 | juicy, easy, rounded |
| ***(*) | La Fagotière | 2030-31 | 10/17 | easy texture, ripe tannins |
| ***(*) | Ferraton Père & Fils Le Parvis | 2033-35 | 01/18 | neat, tasty, restrained, pleaser |
| ***(*) | Dom Georges-Lombrière Marie | 2029-31 | 10/17 | lithe, warm; rugged tannins |
| ***(*) | Domaine Olivier Hillaire | 2032-34 | 10/17 | muscular upright, inner force |
| ***(*) | Dom A Jacumin Bégude des Papes | 2031-32 | 10/17 | muscular, naked, compact, degree |
| ***(*) | Dom Patrice Magni Le Pressoir | 2033-36 | 10/17 | sturdy, fleshy, bit baked |
| ***(*) | Dom Julien Masquin Montplaisir | 2031-33 | 10/17 | clear fruit, pure, charm |
| ***(*) | Gabriel Meffre Saint Théodoric | 2031-33 | 10/17 | cosy, soft, Gren squeeze |
| ***(*) | Domaine La Mereuille Prestige | 2033-36 | 10/17 | downhome, trad, strength, spiced |
| ***(*) | Domaine Moulin-Tacussel | 2031-33 | 03/18 | elegant, floral, savoury, restrained |
| ***(*) | Mouriesse Vinum Tour d’Ambre | 2032-35 | 10/17 | soaked, oaking, sipping |
| ***(*) | Domaine L’Or de Line | 2028-29 | 10/17 | stylish, floral; eau de vie |
| ***(*) | Domaine de la Palud | 2028-31 | 10/17 | gentle, suave, fulsome, perfumed |
| ***(*) | Domaine de Pignan | 2032-34 | 10/17 | nicely wavy, bonny sweetness |
| ***(*) | Dom de Pignan Coralie et Floriane | 2034-36 | 10/17 | copious, spiced, sipping |
| ***(*) | Domaine Le Pointu Mathieu | 2030-32 | 11/17 | good attack, old vine gras |
| ***(*) | Dom Roger Sabon Réserve | 2034-37 | 10/17 | condensed, compressed, strength |
| ***(*) | Christophe Semaska Calixte II | 2036-38 | 12/19 | brewed, grounded, trad, genuine gras |
| ***(*) | Les Terriens | 2036-38 | 02/20 | ripeness, packing, sturdy, traditional |
| ***(*) | Dom Tourbillon Vieilles Vignes | 2029-31 | 10/17 | volume, savoury, honest, dryish |
| ***(*) | Domaine des 3 Cellier Alchimie | 2031-33 | 10/17 | vibrant fruit, life, unforced |
| ***(*) | Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils | 2033-35 | 10/17 | savoury, big, inner density |
| ***(*) | Xavier Vin | 2031-34 | 10/17 | redondo, perfumed, ponderous, sip |
| ***(*) | Xavier Vin Cuvée Anonyme | 2034-36 | 10/17 | thick, vintage depth, oak |
| *** | Pierre Amadieu La Paillousse | 2028-30 | 03/22 | cool content, linear, spiced |
| *** | Brotte Les Hauts de Barville | 2029-31 | 10/17 | brothy, stewed, plain |
| *** | Caves Saint-Pierre Préference | 2028-30 | 10/17 | thick, sweet all through |
| *** | Le Cellier des Princes | 2028-30 | 10/17 | nervous energy, pebbly tannins |
| *** | Cellier Princes Hauts des Coteaux | 2030-31 | 10/17 | suave content, tar-oak |
| *** | Domaine des Chanssaud | 2029-30 | 11/17 | buoyant fruit, bit plain |
| *** | Domaine Charité Fleur Capucine | 2030-32 | 10/17 | raw, oak versus Gren, power |
| *** | Romain Duvernay | 2028-30 | 10/17 | charged, soaked, power, dry |
| *** | Domaine Giuliani | 2027-28 | 12/17 | weighted, coated, bit limited |
| *** | Dom l’Harmas Réserve de Félicien | 2037-39 | 10/19 | supple gras, not ensemble post raising |
| *** | Domaine Lou Fréjau | 2028-30 | 11/17 | tarred, exerted, angular |
| *** | Dom Le Pointu Cuvée Clément | 2029-30 | 11/17 | spice, perfume, low body |
| *** | Dom Jean Royer Sables de la Crau | 2034-37 | 10/17 | thick, sweet, dessert vin |
| *** | Dom Roger Sabon Les Olivets | 2032-34 | 10/17 | some energy, baked |
| *** | Domaine de Saint-Paul L’Insolite | 2030-33 | 10/17 | fluid, wavy; monochrome Syrah |
| *** | Dom Tour St-Michel l’Extrait | 2028-30 | 10/17 | brewed, baked, bit rustic |
| *** | Dom Tour St-Michel Féminessance | 2027-29 | 10/17 | peppery, oak, dry end |
| *** | Dom Tour St-Michel Deux Soeurs | 2028-30 | 10/17 | sturdy, southern, dryness |
| *** | Vignobles & Cie Les Combelles | 2028-30 | 10/17 | stewed, open, easy |
| *** | Vignobles Mayard Clos du Calvaire | 2030-32 | 03/18 | pure fruit, late dryness - barrels? |
| **(*) | Domaine des Maravilhas Espirito | 2029-30 | 10/17 | discreet; husky tannins |
| **(*) | Dom La Mereuille Cuvée d’Auré | 2029-30 | 03/18 | sweet, dry oak, balance?? Syrah |
| **(*) | Domaine Tour St-Michel le lien | 2028-29 | 10/17 | crunched, good core, but dry |
| NR | Domaine Roger Perrin | 03/18 | extremely dry; tasted pre, post bot | |
| NR | TO BE RETASTED POST BOTTLING | |||
| NR | Dom Tour St-Michel Cuvée du Lion | 10/17 | stewed, clumsy, dry | |
| NR | Dom du Père Pape La Crau de Ma Mère | 10/17 | full but dry | |
| NR | Domaine Valmont de Peronny | 10/17 | dry, baked | |
| |